Il Gattopardo

I've walked by this little Neopolitan restaurant so many times; today I finally stopped in for lunch. The white-walled, narrow room was brightened by an open backyard garden; the menu proved to be as appealing as the surroundings.

Although I initially planned to start with the mozzarella in carozza with anchovy sauce, I instead ordered a frisee salad. But wait, it's much more exciting than it sounds - this bed of frizzy chartreuse greens, dressed with the lightest balsamic vinaigrette, lay between two toasts smeared with an abundance of sweet, mellow Gorgonzola. On top, there was a good portion of crispy, salty pancetta spiced with peppercorns. Just lovely.

I craved pasta, although the seafood risotto special called to me, so I went with the burrata and artichoke stuffed ravioli in fresh tomato marjoram sauce. Seven plump pasta pockets were sprinkled with plenty of parmigiano, and torn fresh leaves of marjoram adorned the bright red sauce. I'd just been admiring the heirloom tomatoes at the Rockefeller Center farmer's market - the freshness of the tomatoes and herbs made me feel like the dish was straight from the farm.

Since I'd overdosed on bread and olive oil, I decided to forgo the warm chocolate cake and the cassata, but my cappuccino came with plenty of crispy little nut-studded biscotti. I'll go back to Il Gattopardo. (Or I'll order in - they're now delivering to Midtown.)

Il Gattopardo: 33 West 54th St.,(212) 246-0412.